Diminutive size, however, does not mean that toy dog breeds are less hardy. Once safely past puppyhood, their energy levels and enthusiasm rival any breed of dog. Some are excellent watch dogs, but they won’t be able to follow through preventing entry of an intruder. The hue and cry of toy dog breeds can be enough to make your hair stand on end!

There are several advantages to toy dog breeds. Besides the ease of handling a smaller sized dog, they are more appropriate for apartment dwellers because they do not require as much exercise space as a large dog. Additionally, toy dog breeds usually shed less than their larger counterparts–not because they have different coat characteristics, but because there is less dog! All sides of dog care are smaller: from cleaning to clean-up and food consumed to food expelled.

Historically, toy dog breeds were used as companion dogs. They were friendly and alert, yet willing to be held and petted. They are very comforting and can bring peace to an owner. Nursing homes and adult care facilities have found toy dog breeds to be soothing for their patients. Contrary to common perception, there is no law preventing animals from living in nursing homes. It is up to the eldercare facility to allow–or disallow–pets. The calming influence of any pet, especially one that will transfer affections to everyone equally, is a wonderful aid for patient facilities.

Mine started early. My grandmother, having survived the Depression, knew how to stretch a dollar. Clothes for dog dresses her grandkids were always purchased 3 or 4 sizes too big so we could “grow into them”. And she passed this charming trait on to my mother. So, we endured our baggy clothes, with the sleeves and pant dog shirts legs rolled up, until we were finally big enough to wear them with dignity. By which time they were ready for donation.

Then there’s my husband. Heaven dog coats forbid I should try to give the man a Polo shirt with an uneven hemline. Most Polos are made longer in the back to help them stay “tucked”, but hubby goes un-tucked — always. He rejects any polo that breaks the rule, no matter how subtly. For an otherwise easy-going guy, his behavior is almost perverse.

If you must give clothes this season, there’s one giftee on your list who’s sure to look great in any outfit you buy him. He’ll wear your gift with pride and appreciation, head held high and tail wagging.

That’s right, your dog. Or your best friend’s dog. It’s so easy you’ll wonder why you didn’t think of it before.

Dogs love any kind of attention you lavish on them. So, Spike will wear his outfit - whether it’s cute or ridiculous - as soon as he sees how happy it makes his owner. Spot will eat up all that extra attention he gets from strangers. And Fifi might even want to Vogue for the camera.

Clothes shopping for dogs is a lot like clothes shopping for babies. Unless you’re going for practicality, cuteness is what counts. And that’s easy to accomplish, given that any dog wearing clothes looks pretty darned cute.

Choices in dog clothes range from winter sweaters to football jerseys and summer tees. You can get a set of flannel PJ’s for bedtime or a terry robe for after bath. There’s even an entire line of Harley clothes for dogs, complete with leather cap and studded collar. Dog costumes made for parties and holidays are just too cute for words.

If you really want your gift to be a hit with admirers, accessorize. Try a designer dog collar and maybe a cool pair of sunglasses–they make them just for dogs. And I recently heard that leg warmers are making a come back.

Proper nutrition is the fundamental basis for every aspect of your dog’s life.

It affects their dog costumes health and longevity by offering an essential balance of proteins, fats, complex carbohydrates and the trace nutrients dog jackets and minerals their bodies need for growth, repair and the mantainance of a sound immunne system.

Nutrition is a complex and integral part of your dog’s ability to think clearly, lower stress levels and produce a calmer behavior.

Thinking takes a lot of energy. Dogs invoved in a training program, expend tremendous amounts of mental energy focusing on the tasks presented to them. If your dog starts with minimal nutrition, they become lethargic, edgy or hyper active when asked to perform the simplest of tasks. They cannot focus and loss concentration after a short period of time or become confused. If the dog is continually asked to do something they cannot comprehend, confusion can lead to an aggressive form of acting out.

In training dogs, the first thing I look at is the dog’s diet! I work from the inside out. Training becomes ineffective if the underlying caiuse for the behaviors are not changed.

Hyper, unfocused and out of control dogs often eat foods with high levels of cereal compounds such as: wheat, corn and corn meal.

Aggressive dogs eat foods contain higher levels of incomplete protein which produce excessive amounts of energy. These proteins are often incomplete chains, not offering proper building and repair or may be difficult to digest.

Dogs are very habitual. Their lives revolve around ritual and their internal body clock and routine. They anticipate your return from work at a certain time. They expect their meals at a certain time.

You can use this information in your dog training. This sort of habitual behavior is part of why dog’s are easy animals to train (compared to other animals.) Of course the goal of dog obedience training is for the dog to respond with a particular reaction to a particular command.

Because of the habitual nature of dogs it’s important that you be extremely consistent in your training. Do not change things up on your dog! This will only confuse him. You should go through your routines with him the exact same way every time. When you tell your dog to sit you need to make sure that he does in fact sit before going on to the next command. This consistency will help your dog training efforts be more effective.

Perhaps the most important point with dog training is to keep a level head. You cannot allow yourself to let your temper flare or to yell at or hit your dog. Not only for the obvious moral reasons that you wouldn’t want to treat your dog in this way but also because this sort of behavior will make it much more difficult to train your dog.
Copy from: dog training

Cost of Labrador Puppies

If you decide to get Labrador puppies from a breeder or pet store, be prepared to pay $400 or more for each puppy. Show quality Labrador puppies may cost as much as $1,000 each.

That is, of course, only the beginning of expenses involved in raising Labrador puppies. There are accessories!

Labrador Puppy Accessories

Labrador puppy accessories can cost a great deal or they can be minimal. You should determine your budget and actual needs before visiting the pet store to avoid buying unnecessary accessories for your Labrador puppies. The list below is meant only as examples of Labrador puppy accessories you may want.

1. Collars: Labrador puppies need collars, but be aware of two things. Labrador puppies outgrow collars rapidly. You should not use a chain collar on a young puppy, as it could damage his windpipe. Choose flat fabric or leather collars until your Labrador puppies are at least 5 months old.

2. Leashes: You should train your Labrador puppies to walk on the leash, even if they have plenty of space to run in safety. There will be times, such as visits to the veterinarian’s office when you will be glad they are accustomed to the leash. Unlike the collars, leashes for Labrador puppies should be chain so the puppies will not chew them.

3. Crates: It is a good idea to have crates for your Labrador puppies before you bring them home. Crates become the puppies’ dens. If you are away from home during the day, you can leave your Labrador puppies in their crates to keep them safe, comfortable, and relaxed. Since they will be relaxes, they will not need to relieve themselves as often. The crate will be sure they do not use an inappropriate spot when they do relieve themselves. At night, Labrador puppies in crates sleep better - and stay out of mischief. Select crates that provide just enough space for a full-grown Labrador to stretch out when lying down.

4. Bowls: You can spend a lot of money on fancy bowls for your Labrador puppies, but it really is not necessary. Plain steel bowls are sturdy, unbreakable, and can be cleaned well. If you use plastic containers, Labrador puppies will chew them, possibly ingesting pieces of plastic. Some feed and water bowls are said to be spill proof. This is a good idea when you have energetic Labrador puppies.

5. Toys: Resist buying chew toys simply because they are cute to humans. Your Labrador puppies will chew aggressively. They can easily destroy plastic pet toys and, if no one is there to watch carefully, could choke on small pieces. Give your Labrador puppies sturdy Kongs and Nylabones to chew.

6. Playpen: Since Labrador puppies will try to eat anything they find, it is a good idea to provide a playpen while they are young and learning. This is especially recommended if the puppies are to be outside unattended for any period of time.

7. Brush: Until your Labrador puppies are older, and begin to shed more, use a bristle brush for weekly grooming. The brush will remove dirt from the puppies’ coats and keep them smelling good.

Puppy Food

Food cannot really be classed among Labrador Puppy Accessories, but it is one more cost to anticipate when buying Labrador puppies. Ask the breeder or pet store clerk what food is best. If you know what the puppies are accustomed to eating, you may want to use that kind at first until they are comfortable in their new home.

There are many other accessories available for Labrador puppies, and if your budget will stretch you may want to consider some of them, but these should get you started.

I think the first thing you must look at when you began thinking about having a litter of puppies is the sire and dams genetic qualities. You want to be sure you are passing on healthy genetic make-up. To do so you must be certain both parents are free of any genetic faults which may afflict your particular breed. In addition both parents should exhibit very stable temperaments.

Once you have determined that both parents are healthy, and your puppies have arrived successfully,the real task of raising the puppies begins. It will require a level of devotion not unlike a mother’s to her newborn child.

For the first few weeks of a puppies life the dam does much of the work. Most dams will instinctively keep the puppies clean and fed. However, it is up to you to make sure the dam and puppies have a quiet place of their own with an adequate whelping box. The bedding in the whelping box must be kept clean and sanitary. The temperature in the whelping area must be monitored and maintained so the puppies and the dam are comfortable.Probably the most important thing of all at this time is making sure your dam has proper nutrition so she can produce an adequate supply of milk. Only the breeder should handle the puppies in these first two to three weeks of life. But, they should be handled as this establishes an early trust in people.

Puppies eyes began to open at two to three weeks of age and they began to stand on their own. This is when the real work and expense of rearing a litter begins. As the puppies began to display individual character traits their emotional and physical development begins to rely more and more on the breeder and less on their dam. It is at this point that puppies must be handled daily, and handled in a positive manner,so there is never a barrier of distrust created. Puppies are never objects, no matter how many you have in a litter. Each has unique character traits and puppy conditioning by the breeder is equally as important as any other aspect of puppy rearing.

At three to four weeks you will begin the weaning phase. In most cases the dam, shortly after the puppies teeth begin to emerge, will begin to spend less and less time with the puppies. It is at this point that you will begin to supplement your puppies diet. I start off with a mush made from a high quality puppy food which has been softened with a prepared puppy milk replacer. Gradually you will decrease the amount of milk replacer until the puppies are eating their kibble dry. You must always have fresh drinking water available.

Once the puppies are eating on their own on a regular basis the dam will become less vigilant about cleaning up after the puppies and it will now fall to you to see that the puppy area is maintained in a sanitary manner. You have probably moved them out of the whelping box and into a larger area at this point. Make sure this is in a location that makes cleanup relatively simple. You must,at the least,mop several times daily. You may use a diluted bleach solution, but I prefer to use a one-step solution which is a germicide,fungicide, detergent, and deodorant. You can find this at your local animal health store or your vet may be able to help you find it.

Also at weaning time is when most veterinarians recommend beginning your puppies on a routine vaccination and deworming schedule. This is extremely important in maintaining good health in your puppies and will help to guard them against infectious diseases. I recommend consulting your vet for an appropriate schedule.

Now for evaluating and placing your litter. You have probably been unconsciously “grading” your puppies from the day they were born. An experienced breeder is able to see beyond color and markings, looking at things such as bone, head shape, angulation, and other criteria that vary with each breed. But keep in mind that most puppies change dramatically as they develop. Some puppies may show early potential for show or future breeding stock, but some will almost certainly be of pet quality. It is very important for you to be able to recognize this in order to properly place each puppy. Personality is also improtant when placing your puppies. The quieter puppy will not do as well in the show ring as the puppy whose exuberant personality says”Look at me!!”

As well as grading your puppies, you must be able to “grade” prospective owners. I care about each dog I bring into this world and treat it as part of my extended family when I place it in its new home. Some of the things you may want to ask a prospective owner are whether or not they have had pets previously, if so, do they still have the pet and if not what happened to it. This lets you know what type of other pets the puppy will be around and how responsible the owner was with their previous pet. You will need to know what they intend to do with the puppy. Show, housepet, agility candidate? Will someone be home with the puppy and if not will someone at least be able to come home at lunchtime to check in on the puppy? Will the puppy stay in the house or outside in a pen. What kind of space do they live in? A small apartment or a house with a fenced yard. Some breeds are well suited to apartment living while others require more space in which to exercise. Does the new owner fully understand the time and financial commitment they are making. Give them an average of annual costs, including, vet visits, grooming, food, and supplies. Also let them know, that while we never want it to happen, sometimes things occur which require emergency vet care and this can be quite costly. If the future owner is young ask what their plans are for the future, while it may be awkward, you want to know that your puppy is going to a stable home.

Last, but certainly not least, is having a well thoguht out contract for everyone to sign. Include things such as any health guarantee you are prepared to offer and, if the puppy is being sold as a pet, require proof of spay/neuter by four months of age. Require appropriate vet care throughout the life of the dog. Another thing a conscientious breeder will include in a contract is a clause which states the breeder be afforded first opportunity to acquire the puppy back if the owner is unable to keep the dog for ANY reason. If it is not feasible for the breeder to take the dog back they will be willing to help find a new home for the puppy. These are just a few of the things you may want to consider putting in a contract. But always insist upon a written agreement, even if the new owner is a friend or family member. It just avoids confusion and misunderstandings resulting in bad feelings later on.

Letting your puppies go to their new homes is difficult for any caring breeder. You have invested a lot of yourself in each and every one of them. But, when you have taken the time to establish a relationship of trust with the new owners, it can be a very rewarding experience. I receive pictures on a daily basis from satisfied owners who have acquired a puppy from me and it is very heartwarming when you know you have been able to provide that puppy and that family a happy life together.

Many dog owners will suggest taking your dog to a dog obedience training class. These classes will help you tame your dog and even learn to socialize with other dogs if the training is in a group setting. However, there are ways you can begin to train your dog at home.

Basic Dog Obedience Training Home Tips

Use Your Pet’s Name

To build control and relation with your dog, you need to use his/her name frequently when training and giving commands. This will help build name recognition and strengthen the relationship with you, his/her owner. Even for the most basic commands or activities, use your dog’s name when involved in all activities, even feeding time.

Use a Leash

Leash training involves collaring and leashing your dog. Through the use of a leash, you can teach your dog commands and actions. At first, you want to show your dog the command by positioning your dog accordingly (e.g. placing him/her in the ’sit’ position). You also want to verbalize the command while positioning. After positioning your dog a few times, say the command and then use the leash to exert force, but not too much. A slight tug on the leash should do. Each time you state the command, use the leash. Work with your dog until he/she demonstrates understanding of the command. When you dog obeys the command correctly, reward him/her with a ‘good PET NAME’ and pet him/her on the head. Leash training doesn’t involve rewarding your pet with treats, as it works against leash training and gives your dog a reason to obey other than just obeying the command..

Use Reward Training

Reward training works similar to leash training except that instead of using a leash to assert the command, you use a reward (e.g. a treat) to coax your dog into obeying. This method of training does show results, however some experts say that this method doesn’t exert the force necessary to teach your dog to obey and also establish the owner/pet relationship.

Be Firm

When training your dog, you need to stand your ground and be firm. It’s easy to give into your cute and cuddly pet, especially if it’s still a puppy, but if you want to train them right, you need to be firm. There’s no need to punish your dog, you just need to be patient and work with your dog as much as possible until he/she understands the command. Work with your dog until the command is followed and obeyed precisely as desired. This means even after your dog has learned the command, you still need to assert a firm command to ensure that your dog won’t forget the command or get into bad habits.

If you want an obedient dog, you need to involve Fido in basic dog obedience training. The best bet is to enroll them into a class, but you can also start training them at home. The earlier you start and the better your obedience training, the better behaved your dog will be.

Working Breeds

In generally the working breeds tend to be large dogs that have been bred to pull carts, pull sleds, guard and even perform various rescues. Breeds in the working group include:

· Akitas
· Bernese Mountain Dogs
· Boxers
· Bullmastiffs
· Great Danes
· Doberman Pinchers
· Great Pyrenees
· Newfoundland
· Rottweiler
· St. Bernard
· Siberian Husky

There are also several other breeds including the amazing Komondor, known for its long, ringlet style coat. All of these breeds of dogs are large, usually weighing in excess of 60 pounds, with many of the larger males reaching over 150 pounds when full grown.

When working with these working dogs it is important to note that they are generally very gentle dogs although them may be aggressive or possessive around strangers. Dogs such as the Akita that has been bred to both hunt and protect will need additional socialization and training at an early age to prevent aggressive tendencies as they mature. These dogs need to be very obedient simply because they are so large and could potentially hurt someone even by simply jumping up. Usually very easy to train they require consistent and firm training with lots of positive praise and attention.

Generally these dogs will be natural watchdogs although they are not necessarily effective guard dogs. Some, such as the Doberman Pincher and the Rottweiler are excellent as both watch and guard dogs with the proper training. Professional trainers can be very effective in training and working with guard dogs.

Size: between 7-9 inches measure from tip or nose to tip of tail.

Life Span: 2-3 years with some reported cases of 5-6 years.

Appearance:
With half their overall length being made up of tail, the gerbil is a relatively small animal. The hair is banded with gray, yellow and black with a white stomach. The tail is usually the same length as the body and is covered with fur and a has a tuft of fur at the end.

Habits:
Gerbils are naturally very social animals and are best kept in small groups. Easily tamed and handled make them a favorite pet for younger kids. Very curious, always willing to explore and crack or crevice. Active at all hours of the day and night.

Grooming:
Gerbils spend a lot of time grooming themselves and their group member. Not only is it important to maintaining a healthy coat, it is an big part of their social interaction.

Chewing:
It’s a fact of life, gerbils love to chew. At some point they will chew through every toy house your place in their cage. That is why it is important to keep a good supply of chew toys and gerbil treats to allow your to do what comes natural to them.

Burrowing:
The natural environment for gerbils is underground in a complex maze of tunnels and burrows. Adding a healthy layer of wood shavings allows your gerbils to burrow in their enclosure.

Tip of the Day - the cardboard inserts for paper towels are perfect for your gerbil to play in as well as chew on.

Sounds:
Young gerbils will make a high pitched squeak. Adults will make noises when playing or stressed.

Through patience and consistency, taming and handling a Gerbil can be accomplished quite easily.

Here are a few tips on the best methods for handling Gerbils:

The most recommended method of carrying a gerbil is to gently secure it in the palm of your hand. You can hold the loose skin on the back of the neck to prevent the gerbil from getting away. This is a safe method. However, I prefer to keep a hand on top of my gerbils and leave an opening so the gerbil can see out.

Still not comfortable handling your gerbil. Try this, use a cup or can on it’s side and allow the gerbil to walk into it. Once inside, tip the cup or can up and cover the top. Gerbils are good jumpers. Never pick up a gerbil by it’s tail!

Taming you gerbil is going to take time and patience. Once you are able to handle your gerbil, a whole new relationship takes form between you and your gerbil.

Keep these tips in mind when you are ready to start working with your gerbil.

Patience. This is the key ingredient to your success. Remember that your gerbils are going to be in a new home with totally new surroundings. That is going to make them nervous. Give them time to adjust. Keep maintenance to a minimum. Always speak softly and move slowly the first few days after your gerbils arrival.

After your gerbil has settled in, start spending more time around the cage. Offer a chew stick or another treat when they approach the cage bars. This will allow the gerbil to get used to your scent and associate you as a positive presence.

Once you have you gerbil eating out of your hand, you will want to progress to the gerbil climbing on top of your hand to retrieve the treat. Once your gerbil will climb your hand, the next step is to start tickling it’s sides and scratching the back of it’s head. Scratching behind the head imitates their natural grooming techniques.

> Remember to handle your gerbils regularly to keep them socialized. Active and curious by nature, your gerbil will appreciate any time it receives outside it’s cage. One of the best small animal toys I have purchased is the hamster exercise ball. The more exercise your gerbils receive during the day, the more they will sleep at night and the more you will sleep also.

Gerbils are social creatures and it is recommended to keep more than one gerbil. Living alone in a cage is likely to stress a single gerbil and therefore it may be more difficult to tame. Starting out with a small group of young gerbils would be the ideal situation. Just remember to be patient and consistent. Use treats for the positive re-enforcement and make sure your gerbil is getting plenty of exercise.

Jumping up on people

Jumping up on people can be a cute trick for puppies, but it quickly becomes a problem behavior as the dog gets older, larger and heavier. A very heavy dog can easily knock a child or even a small adult of his or her feet, so jumping on people can be a dangerous problem as well as an annoying one.

The reason puppies and older dogs jump on people is obvious - they are excited and happy to see them. Many people are reluctant to discourage this exuberant behavior, but it is important to redirect that happiness and energy in other ways. Many well meaning owners, family members and friends inadvertently encourage this jumping up behavior by picking the puppy up, kissing it or otherwise providing encouragement.

This type of inconsistency is anathema to proper dog training, and in order for the dog to be trained not to jump, every member of the family must recognize and accept the importance of the training. If one member of the family allows the dog to jump up while other family members do not, the dog will understandably become confused and frustrated. The training must be firm, kind and consistent in order to be effective.

One way to redirect the dog’s happiness and excited ness from jumping is to teach him to lift his paw when greeting you. This ’shaking hands’ posture is an acceptable way for the dog to show his happiness and his respect. Many people even teach their dogs to do simple tricks, like rolling over, instead of jumping on people.

Escaping and roaming the neighborhood

A responsible dog owner would never dream of allowing his or her dog to roam the neighborhood freely. Allowing a dog to roam on its own is irresponsible, dangerous (to the dog and the neighborhood), and probably even illegal. Most towns have ordinances which prohibit dogs from being allowed to roam around free, so you could be in legal trouble if your dog is found wandering the neighborhood unattended.

Of course sometimes that wandering dog is not the owner’s idea, and many dogs perform amazing feats of escape when left on their own. The temptations for unattended dogs are many, including passing bicycles, joggers, children, cats and other dogs. It is much easier to prevent escapes than to recapture a loose dog, so let’s talk about some preventative measures every dog owner can take.

Removing the motivation to escape is a big part of the solution. A bored dog is much more likely to spend his day plotting the great escape. A dog that is surrounded by everything he or she needs, like lots of toys, a soft bed, and plenty of fresh clean, water, is more likely to spend his or her day contentedly sleeping or playing with toys until the owner returns.

In addition, a dog with lots of pent up, unused energy is likely to try to escape. Try incorporating several vigorous play sessions with your dog into your daily routine. Make one of those play sessions right before you leave. If your dog has a chance to work of his or her energy, chances are he or she will sleep or relax much of the day.

Of course dealing with the dog is only half the problem. It is also important to make the property as escape proof as possible, through proper fencing and other measures. For dogs that dig, it may be necessary to extend the fence underground by placing metal stakes in the ground every few feet. For dogs that jump, it may be necessary to make the fence higher. And if none of these measures work, it may be necessary to confine the dog to the house when you are not at home.